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Supra Turbo MkIII
Braking System
Disc brake pads - Replacement 1) Remove the cap(s) from the brake fluid reservoir and siphon off about two thirds of the fluid from the reservoir. Failing to do this could result in the reservoir overflowing when the calliper pistons are pressed into their bores. 2) Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 3) Remove the front wheels. Work on one brake assembly at a time, using the assembled brake for reference if necessary. 4) Inspect the brake disc carefully. If it's cracked, warped or badly worn then replace as necessary. 5) Remove the calliper bolts (Some models on have one) and the anti-squeal springs 6) Tap out the guide plate with a punch and hammer and remove it. 7) Pivot the calliper out of the mounting bracket - suspend the calliper from the underbody with a piece of wire so you don't put strain on the brake hose. 8) Now slide out the old pads, and fix new one in. Be sure to transfer any wear indicators from the old pads to the new ones. To reassemble is just the reverse of above. Note if your brake hoses are badly cracked or past there best, replace. Bleeding the Brake Hydraulic System Note - Bleeding the hydraulic system is necessary to remove any air which has entered the system during removal and installation of a hose, line, calliper or master cylinder. If you brake fluid is up for renewal or if it looks dirty, then change it. You will need to bleed the brakes then. It will be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluid level or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cylinder. If a brake line was disconnected at only one wheel, then only that calliper must be bled. If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting located between the master cylinder and any of the brakes, that part of the system served by the disconnected line must be bled. Bleed the right rear, the left rear, the right front and the left front in that order when the whole system is involved. You will need an assistant on hand as well as a supply of new brake fluid, an empty clear glass or plastic container. (I use an old Nescafe Jar) a length of 3 /16 -inch clear plastic or vinyl tubing to fit over the bleeder screws and a wrench to open and close the bleeder screws. 1) Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the bleeder screw slightly, then tighten it to a point where it is snug but can still be loosened quickly and easily. 2) Place one end go the tubing over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in the nescafe jar. (1/4 fill the jar with old brake fluid) 3) Have the assistant pump the brakes a few times to get pressure in the system, then hold the pedal firmly down to the floor, while the pedal is held to the floor open the bleeder screw just enough to allow a flow of fluid to leave the calliper. Watch for air bubbles to exit the submerged end of the tube. When the fluid flows slow after a couple of seconds, close the screw and have your assistant release the pedal. 4) Repeat steps 2&3 until no more air is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the bleeder screw and proceed to the left rear wheel, the right front wheel and the left front wheel, in that order, and perform the same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir frequently as this will want to be topped up. 5) Refill the master cylinder reservoir after bleeding is complete. Check the operation of the brakes. The pedal should feel solid when depressed, with no sponginess. If necessary repeat the whole process again and again until satisfied. Notes Never re-use old brake fluid. It contains moisture which will deteriorate the brake system components. If you think you cannot do it, take to a Toyota Dealer or a local garage. Freeing up the Slide pins on front calipers
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