• Rising Sun Engines - http://www.rsengines.com/index.html
• Midwest Engine Sales Inc. - http://www.midwest-engine.com/
• SOKO - http://www.soko.com/
• K.Wantanbe - 1-800-592-8262
• Japanese Engine Exchange - http://members.aol.com/simonsez6/japindex.htm

Some also use an engine degreaser with a high pressure spray to degrease the engine. Although this is an effective method of removing greasy deposits on the engine, make sure to cover up all the parts of the engine which don't like water. (alternator, TPS, coil pack, ignitor, etc)

1. Gradual loss of coolant.
2. Overflowing overflow bottle after hard driving.
3. Temperature increase when putting load on the engine for long periods of time. (going up a hill)
4. Sometimes gurgling underneath the dash.

Symptoms 1 and 4 are common after a radiator flush/fill, or if one of your hoses is slowly leaking. Symptoms 2 and 3 are pretty sure signs that something is wrong. Either way, if you suspect a BHG, run down to your NAPA dealer and get a Block Tester. This is basically just a solvent which will test for exhaust gases in your coolant. Since a BHG means that coolant is being exposed to the combustion chamber, this is a pretty conclusive test. Remember that coolant is NOT supposed to enter the testing apparatus when doing the diagnosis.

The symptoms you described can be attributed to other things apart from a blown head gasket. (leaky valve covers and typical behaviour of a cooling system)

Easy bolt ons:

• Larger cat back exhaust. (between 2.5" and 2.75")
• K&N FIPK or HKS Super Mega Flow air filter.
• AFM Mod
• Thermostat Mod
• Headers. (PaceSetter, Jim Hall, or Doug Thorley)
• Aftermarket Ignition (Crane, MSD, or Jacobs) (bump timing up)
• Increasing Timing.

More work:

• Port matching intake, throttle body, exhaust.
• Port and polish head.
• Lightweight flywheel.
• Shave the head to increase compression.
• Adjustable cam gears.
• Custom cams?

1. Call Toyota - (800) 331-4331 option #3.  CANADIANS Call: 1-416-431-8035 Mention Supra Owners Group International, VIN#, and mileage at which it/they (or symptoms of a BHG) occurred.

   MAKE SURE TO ASK FOR A CASE NUMBER.

2. Register the Blown Head Gasket on our website! http://www.supras.com/sogi/BHG.htm (takes 1 minute - painless)

Now for fixing it. Depending on how severe your blown head gasket was, you'll need to machine the head and/or the block to give the new gasket a clean and smooth surface to seal with. You'll also need to check for warpage of the block/head, and if excessive, shave it down to make it straight. This type of job can be done by the dealer, or by a mechanic you trust, but both need to have access to a GOOD machine shop, as the quality of the machining is a big factor in how successful the gasket will be. Typical costs to do the head gasket are between $1000-2000, depending on the amount of machine work that needs to be done, and what other things get replaced in the process. A BHG is not out of reach for a do it yourselfer, but be prepared to have the car apart for at least a couple weeks if you've never done it before. Also, the success rate of home mechanics (who've never done it before) seems considerably less than those having the work done by a professional. The SOGI site has information on this procedure on the tech tips/mods page. As for the gasket type to use, it all depends on what your plans are for the car. If you plan on taking it above 300hp, most people would recommend a metal head gasket and even aftermarket head bolts (ARP). The stock Toyota gasket has been redesigned and has a high success rate now, so if your mods plans are relatively tame, then a stock head gasket should do fine, as long as you remember to torque to 65-70 ft/lbs.

A well detailed write up of the head gasket issue with MkIII Supras can be found on the SONIC site at: http://www.supras.com/sogi/generations/mk3_pmtn.html

More information on the HKS gaskets can be found at http://web.hksusa.com/headgaskets.html
GReddy also offers MHGs and information on them can be found at: http://www.greddy.com/engine.html

For a more in depth discussion of metal head gaskets (and the head gasket issue in general) check out SONIC's excellent write up at: http://www.supras.com/sogi/generations/mk3_pmtn.html

For NA cars, an exhaust between 2.5" and 2.75" will give you the best results. The 2.75" exhaust will take a little away from your bottom end, but will return it on the top end. A straight through muffler is PROBABLY not wanted, as it will be too restrictive, however a Turbo muffler usually does very well. If you are putting out more than 300 hp, a 3" exhaust could provide a little more power.

For Turbo cars, an exhaust between 2.75" and 3" usually works best. Although some go larger, the gains are very slim unless very large (>400 hp) amounts of HP are present. The muffler should be as free flowing as possible. (as long as you can stand the noise)

1. Register as a member of SOGI, you'll be eligible for discounts, and by having more members SOGI will be able to represent you better.
2. Check to see if there are any recalls on your model supra, and whether it has been serviced for them. (the dealer will know by your VIN) Although recalls are rare, they can often land you some free labour/parts and guarantee that all known problems are taken care of. For example, 89-92 Supras had a problem with the expansion valve for their AC system, when fixed by the dealer they will also refill your AC unit with freon.
3. As soon as you can switch your oil to synthetic. This is especially important with Turbos as the synthetic oils ability to stay on the parts after shutdown will reduce the wear significantly. Doing it yourself will give you a feel for the engine compartment. Note that switching to synthetic oil on older engines MAY reveal leaks (or even bad rings) which did not present themselves before, so consider that you might have to do some replacement of seals after switching to synthetic to keep it in the engine.
4. The power steering flushes and changes are often neglected as part of the maintenance of a Supra. Unfortunately, it's a pretty important thing to do however, so as soon as you can change it out with some good synthetic fluid. The job is relatively easy (but messy) and tips on doing it can be found on the SOGI site.
5. For you Supra to last it is critical that your cooling system is working optimally. A few steps will help make sure it's working correctly.
   • Clean out the debris from between the radiator and A/C condenser (the "radiator" in front of the cars radiator. Fin spacing in the A/C system is larger than that of the radiator, and as a result, things get through the one and not the other. Thus, you'll get blocked air flow by things you can't see. Unbolt the radiator and carefully push it back to see if you have this problem. If so, vacuum it out and brush the fins carefully before remounting the radiator.
   • Check for bent fins on the radiator, condenser, and if so equipped, the turbo intercooler and oil cooler. Not only will the function of these items improve by straightening out the fins, it'll increase air flow to items behind them (like the cars radiator).
   • Purge air in the cooling system. If you bought your baby from a dealer, more than likely they flushed the cooling system before putting it on the lot. This may introduce air into the system, and cause intermittent cooling problems. Park your car on an incline with the front tilted up slightly, remove the radiator cap when cool, run the vehicle until the coolant is flowing smoothly in the radiator, top off the radiator and the overflow, and recap.
6. Keeping the interior and exterior clean will save you lots of money in the long run, replacing or repairing either can become very expensive.
   • Use a good-quality UV protector for the dash and other vinyl parts after thoroughly cleaning them.
   • Polishes for exterior should be safe for clear coat paints (as many Supras have).
   • All "rubber" weather stripping should be treated with a silicone spray to bring it back to life (and avoid unpleasant water leaks). Gently rub the silicone spray (NOT WD-40 or other things like that) into the weather stripping around the doors, targa (if equipped), hatch, etc.
   • Clean your engine compartment. Simple green is safe to use on most parts of the engine, and a clean engine will run cooler. Do NOT clean the inside of the AFM, as it contains sensitive sensors which are easily ruined.
7. Manuals: Get one, especially if you intend on doing your own work! If you plan on doing your own work definitely get the official Toyota one. Generic manuals (Chiltons etc..) generally do a very poor job and bunch together different models, so we don't recommend them. Also get an owners manual if you don't have one, as it actually contains useful information. Both can be acquired from your Toyota dealer.

• Valve Cover gaskets.
• Front and rear main seals. (You'll need to take your timing belt cover off to check the front one)
• Oil pan gasket.
• Oil plug gasket (did you replace yours last time?)
• Distributor O Ring
• Cam Seals

The best way to track down an oil leak is to clean your engine bay thoroughly, then drive for a bit and examine where the oil is coming from. (remember it flows down :) ) This is another great argument for keeping your engine spotless.

82-86
Factory size front: 3.5" Feasible: 4"
Into door (With some cut steel) 5.25"
Factory size rear: Modified 5X7" Feasible: 5.25"
Seen done (NOT recommended) 6X9

86.5-90
Factory size front: 4" Feasible: 5.25" (Barely)
W/ Custom baffle plate and cut steel 6.5"

91-92
Factory size front 91-92: 6.5" (Shallow) Feasible: 6.5"

86.5-88
Factory size rear 85.5-88: 4.5"
Factory size rear '89-92: 4.5"/3.5" combo

MkII

Engine Work

• 3/8 or 1/2 socket set with associated ratchets. Don't' skimp on the quality of these as you'll be using them often. 6 point sockets are recommended, otherwise you're likely to strip bolts. Get some deep wall sockets while you're at it too. A range between 8 and 24mm will cover pretty much everything.
• Get a small (3"), medium (8") and long (12") extension with a couple elbows for your ratchets. Nuts and bolts are sometimes hard to get to.
• Set of combination wrenches. A set with sizes between 8 and 17mm should cover almost everything.
• If you're pulling the head off, 10mm and 16mm hex head sockets.
• Torque wrench. If you want to do the job right it's nice to have one. Get a good quality 'click' type with a range between 25-250 ft/lbs.
• A breaker bar.
• Phillips and flat head screw drivers. (small, medium and #2 large)
• A couple ViceGrips. Spend the money and get good ones, this tool will save your skin more than once.
• Stands and a floor jack. If you're going to be doing anything below the car, or ever doing your brakes you're going to need these. You can often find a set for pretty cheap if you look around.
• An oil drain pan.
• Lots of Rags and strong cleaner.

For Electrical Work:

• A multimeter, for diagnosing problems.
• Wire and a stripper for it.
• A selection of connectors, and a crimper for them.
• large and small wire brushes, in brass and steel.

Misc.

• Medium and large(useful for removing oil filters) set of channel lock pliers
• Spark plug socket and gapping tool.
• Large needle nose pliers
• Large set of regular pliers
• Medium sized prybar
• Mityvac(vacuum pump with gauge on top...useful for bleeding/flushing brakes, clutch, and checking vacuum)
• Compression tester(make sure it has fittings for both spark plug sizes for later use)
• Timing light

For a MKIII Supra it's prohibitively expensive to try to put a turbo on your non-turbo (7MGE) engine, besides some internal differences (oil squirters), you would also need to get a whole lot of accessories to mount a turbo on it. If you really have your mind set on it, the reasonable, but still expensive alternative is to throw a complete turbo engine (7MGTE) into your NA.. Used engines can usually be had for ~$2000, and labour and accessories would probably add up to another $1500. Not a cheap thing to do either way, but if you're really attached to that Supra of yours, or your engine is on the way out anyways, it's a feasible alternative.

In the case of a MKIV Supra, although it is still an expensive option, it can be done, and has been done quite successfully. The single turbo conversion will be about ~$6000-$8000 depending on how crazy you want to get with it. Results of > 400hp are not unusual. The person to contact on details concerning this type of conversion would be Jarret Humphreys at Powerhouse Inc. (humfj@inu.net)

Typical things to check on a MKIII are:

• Blown head gasket. This is a pretty common one, sometimes the seller even knows about it and that's why they're trying to sell. Make sure to do a pressure test or a block test to know where you stand there.
• Worn synchros. Is it hard to shift into second or reverse? If so, count on having to rebuild the transmission (or possibly use synthetic transmission oil) in the near future.
• Bad Turbo. Try spinning the turbo, it should spin freely, and make sure there isn't a lot of freeplay on it. Either one of these means a rebuild is in the future.
• Look for leaking oil on the engine block and below on the oil pan. Common causes are leaking valve covers or oil pan, but make sure you find out for sure which it is.
• Water in the hatch. Lift up the carpet in the hatch and look in the spare tire well, is there evidence of water being there? If so then the hatch probably leaks, and rust might have started developing here.
• Check for rust on the door handles and inside the fenders.

Typical things to check on a MKII are:

• Rust, rust, rust. Hatch, especially the lower lip. Wheel wells, the rot can easily be covered by the flares until it is very bad. Lower corners behind rear wheels. Lower part of the doors, and areas around sunroof and fuel filler door. Spare tire well. Fog lights go bad too because of rust and are hard to find used / very expensive at dealer. The metal grille at the bottom of windshield is almost always rusted beyond repair, but that's just cosmetic and easily replaced if you were to ever come across a good one.
• Differential. Listen for whine and feel for any play. It's not fatal but annoying.
• Cooling system problems. Keep your eyes on the temperature when test driving and idling for a good while. If it goes above midpoint, there are some problems. MkIIs are not immune to BHG either so check for bubbles in overflow after hard driving. Radiators can be in a pretty gross condition because of the age of these cars.
• Brakes. Changing the fluid and pads, and machining the rotors or getting new ones usually brings it back to the very good original specs. On used MkIIs the brakes have often been neglected to the state where you have hard time locking them, or the car may pull to one side/shudder.
• Oil leak from cam covers. Just an annoyance, replace the gasket and you are set. Sometimes it's so simple as loosened screws. Exhaust side is first to go.
• Front wheel bearings. Check for play in the front wheels when the car is off the ground. Bearings will either need a repack, or replacement.

Stock, the wheels are 4 lug, and either 14x5.5 or 14x7. Any wheels off the 76-85 Celica/Supra line will work. The 'L' type Supra had 15x5.5 "pyramid" wheels which were the same design as the earlier ones, just larger, these can also be had from 85 Vans. People have put 17x8+9's on MkIIs, but they are custom made by Forgelines.

MKIII & MkIV (interchangeable, possibly)

The wheels are 5 lug, with 37 and 50 offsets respectively. MKIV wheels (17x8+9) have been known to fit on a MkIII without any spacers or modifications to the suspension, although this will reduce the overall track of the car due to the increased offset. If lowered MkIV wheels without spacers will also rub on the inside of the wheel arch on full lock. The widest tires which can fit without modification on an unlowered MKIII are 275's, but that is a very tight fit. Wheels from late model Lexus's (GS300, LS400 (93-94), SC300 (95+), SC400 (92-97)), 93+ Mazda RX7's and 90+ Nissan 300ZX's will also fit the MKIII or MkIVs without modifications.